CONGRATULATIONS
ON COMPLETING LEVEL 1.
WHAT HAVE I LEARNT ?
A hair colour is determined by the amount of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin pigments in the hair when reflected by the corresponding wave lengths in white light (Daylight).
Caucasian hair: Has 9 seperate natural base shades ranging from Natural Base shade 2 (Darkest Brown) to a natural base shade 10 (Lightest Blonde).
Oriental hair: Has only one natural base shade. The natural base shade 2, (Darkest Brown). Unless mixed race.
Black hair: Has only one natural base shade. The natural base shade 2, (Darkest Brown). Unless mixed race.
Asian hair: Has only one natural base shade. The natural base shade 2, (Darkest Brown). Unless mixed race.
You have learnt to lift natural base shades one at a time, or as many as 9 natural base shades with multiple applications.
Peroxide strengths vary from 6% hydrogen peroxide mixed with powder bleach, one application to achieve one shade lift, or 9% hydrogen peroxide mixed with powder bleach using multiple applications for 8 shades lift.
The natural base shade is determind by natural pigments in the hair when reflected by white light (Daylight). Once all these pigments are removed the hair then reflects white. We know their are two groups of natural pigments in the hair.
Group 1: Eumelanin group of pigments (Dark Blue through to Green).
Group 2: Pheomelanin group of pigments (Red through to Yellow).
Once powder bleach is mixed with 6% or 9% hydrogen peroxide and applied to the hair the Eumelanin pigments remove fast leaving the hair reflecting dark red from the remaining natural pigments from the Pheomelanin group. The red pigments in this group also remove fast leaving the hair reflecting yellow. It is these yellow pigments that can take some time and multiple applications to remove.
Level 1. has trained your eye recognise all the different natural base shades and what is involved in bleaching out a shade at a time. The darker natural base shades (3 to 6) when lifted from a base shade 2 require only limited amounts of pigments from the Eumelanin group only to be removed. The lighter natural base shades (7 to 10) require all the Eumelanin group of pigments to be removed and varying amounts to all of the Pheomelanin group of pigments to be removed (depending on the target natural base shade).
Now you have completed Level 1 you are fully qualified to give a client a fully informed consultation for any bleach process.
i.e. If a client sits in your chair and asks to go from her natural base 2 to a platinum blonde (Base 10). You are now able to explain the process fully before you begin. How long it will take. How many applications will be beeded. You can explain before hand that when you shampoo of the first application her hair will appear dark red/copper (Ginger) so she does not panic when you remove the towell and her hair is Ginger. Explain the next application will leave the hair reflecting yellow and it will yake several more applications until all the yellow is removed. Now the client knows exactly what to expect what to expect from the process. As the results unfold the clients trust in you will grow because everything has happened exactly as you said it would.
Please note: If after six applications it is recommended, to stop there apply a toner and allow the client to leave and return a week later for the next and final application. This allows the hair to recover and achieve a platinum blonde without any damage to the clients hair.